THE HISTORY OF PAITHANI SAREES
The
history of Paithani saris can be traced back to 2nd century BC
in Satvahana Dynasty, at that time the Paithani was made with pure gold
wire with cotton and silk. The Greco-Romans were
very fond of this Paithani sari 2000 years ago. They use to exchange gold for
this luxurious Paithani sari. At that time this Paithani was only worn by
royals. Paithani was also known as "Pratishthani" as it was
originated in the ancient city of Pratishthan now known as Paithan. Paithani
also has the traces in many ancient Hindu and Buddhist texts. Paithani is also
known as "Dev vastra"(fabric of God). Paithani has a very rich
history of 2500 years but still many of us are unaware. Historians have noted
fine Paithani saris with delicate gold and silver thread-work being sold in
Greece in exchange for gold between 200 and 400 BC. In 18th century the
Paithani thrived under the patronage of the Peshwas. It is believed that
Madhavrao Peshwa had a special love for Paithani textiles. Legend also has it
that the Paithani caught the fancy of the Nizam of Hyderabad too and that it
was his daughter in law Nilofer who introduced new motifs to the selvedge and
pallav designs.
The Paithani
saree, originating from Paithan in Maharashtra, boasts a rich history
spanning over two millennia. It's known for its intricate silk weaving,
vibrant colors, and distinctive motifs like peacocks and lotus
flowers. Initially patronized by royalty, the saree has evolved with
influences from the Satavahana dynasty, Mughals, Peshwas, and Nizams, becoming a symbol of Maharashtrian heritage.
Significance : Paithani saris are handwoven masterpieces known for their luxurious silk, intricate zari work, and heritage value.
1. Handwoven craftsmanship – Made using the
tapestry weaving technique, ensuring unique, seamless designs.
2. Pure silk & zari – Woven with fine
mulberry silk and real gold/silver threads for rich selvedges.
3. Reversible selvedges – Identical designs
on both sides, showcasing expert weaving.
4. Vibrant colours – Traditionally dyed with
natural vegetable extracts, featuring striking contrasts.
5. Signature motifs – Iconic designs like
Peacock, Lotus, Parrot, and Creepers, symbolizing prosperity.
6. Cultural significance – A prized heirloom
in Maharashtrian weddings, festivals, and ceremonies.
7. Exclusivity & luxury – Each sari is
one-of-a-kind, making it a timeless treasure.
Motifs: Sarees
Due to proximity to the Ajanta caves,
the influence of the Buddhist paintings can be seen in the woven
Paithani motifs
1. The Kamal or lotus flower
on which Buddha sits or stands
2. The Hans (swan) motif
3. The Ashraffi motif
4. The Asawalli (flowering vines),
became very popular during the Peshwa's period
5. The Bangadimor, peacock in bangle.
6. The Popat-Maina
7. The Humarparinda, pheasant
8. The Amar Vell
9. The Narali motif (coconut), very
common
Small motifs like
circles, stars, kuyri, rui phool, kalas pakhhli, chandrakor, clusters of 3 leaves,
were very common for the body of the sari.
Historical Overview:
Ancient Roots: The art of
Paithani weaving dates back to the Satavahana period (2nd century BCE) in
Pratishthan (modern-day Paithan)
Yeola as
a Weaving Hub: While Paithan
remains the origin, Yeola, near Shirdi, also became a significant weaving
center, especially during the Peshwa era, with the Peshwas even relocating
weavers there.
Trade and Influence: Paithan was a thriving trading center, with its silk and cotton fabrics being exchanged with Roman goods, demonstrating its international reach.
Revival and Contemporary Relevance: After a period of decline, the Paithani industry was revived in the mid-20th century and continues to be a cherished part of Maharashtrian culture and bridal wear.
Silk and Zari: Paithani
sarees are traditionally woven with fine mulberry silk and zari (gold or silver
thread).
Unique Motifs: The sarees feature distinctive motifs inspired by Ajanta and Ellora
caves, including peacocks, lotus, mangoes, and other natural elements.
Intricate Pallu and Borders: The pallu (decorative endpiece) and borders of the saree are particularly elaborate and time-consuming to weave.
Double-sided Weave: A characteristic of authentic Paithani sarees is that they look the same on both sides.
Bridal Attire: It's a favored choice for brides in Maharashtra and is worn during auspicious occasions and festivals.
Royal Connection: The
saree's association with royalty and its rich history make it a symbol of
prestige and tradition.
Contemporary
Styles: While
deeply rooted in tradition, Paithani sarees are also being styled in modern
ways, with brides opting for unique draping styles and blouse designs.
1. Ancient trade
routes: Historical records from the 2nd century BCE mention the silks and
cotton of Paithan (then Pratishthana) being exchanged for Roman wines and olive
oil, indicating its early international recognition.
2. Global
appreciation: Paithani fabrics, known for their enduring quality and
traditional designs, were considered highly valuable in ancient Greece and
other parts of the world.
3. Trade and
export: For centuries, Paithan served as a key hub for producing and
exporting silk textiles, including Paithani sarees, across India and beyond.
4. Modern recognition: In recent times, the Paithani saree has garnered appreciation on the global stage, with efforts underway to promote it through exhibitions, fashion shows, and cultural festivals.
In essence, the
Paithani saree's history is a testament to its enduring beauty, meticulous
craftsmanship, and its ability to adapt and connect with diverse audiences,
both within Maharashtra and across the world
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