LAKHNAVI KURTIS

LAKHNAVI KURTIS

A Lakhnavi embroidery kurti features chikankari, a traditional hand-embroidery technique from Lucknow, India. characterized. by intricate, delicate stitches on fabrics like cotton, georgette, and chiffon. These kurtis showcase traditional motifs such as florals and paisleys, creating a lacy,elegant aesthetic that is perfect for various occasions, from casual wear to festive events. The embroidery often uses a single thread color against a lighter fabric, enhancing its subtle,"white-on-white" appearance.

Key features of Lakhnavi kurtis

Intricate hand embroidery: Skilled artisans meticulously create detailed patterns using fine threads, with many pieces taking days or weeks to complete.

Signature stitches: Over 32 different stitches are used in authentic Chikankari, giving the embroidery a unique, dimensional texture. Common stitches include:

Bakhiya (Shadow work): An embroidery technique worked from the back of the fabric, where the design shows through as a shadow on the front.

Phanda and Murri: Knot-like stitches that are often used to create flower centers.

Jaali: A fine, mesh-like open-weave pattern created by pulling apart the fabric threads.

Tepchi: A long running stitch.

Fabric: Authentic Chikankari is typically done on light, breathable fabrics, traditionally white muslin (tanzeb). Modern kurtis are also crafted from materials like:

1. Cotton

2. Modal cotton

3. Georgette

4. Chiffon

5. Organza

Motifs: Traditional motifs are inspired by nature and Persian art, with intricate paisleys, floral designs, leaves, and vines being common.

Color: While traditionally a "white-on-white" shadow work was used, modern Lakhnavi kurtis are now available in a wide range of colors and may incorporate gold or sequin embellishments.

Silhouettes: They come in various silhouettes, including flared A-line, straight, and high-low styles that gracefully flatter different body types.

Designs & Patterns

Motifs: Common designs include floral patterns and paisleys. 

Aesthetic: The embroidery creates a delicate, intricate look that is highly detailed and artisanal. 

Uses & Versatility 

Occasions: Suitable for both casual daily wear and more festive or formal events.

Styling: Can be paired with leggings, churidars, or palazzos for a complete ethnic outfit.

Care Instructions 

Washing: Hand wash or gentle machine wash is recommended to preserve the delicate embroidery

History and origin

Mughal patronage: The craft is believed to have been introduced to India by the Mughals in the 16th century. It flourished under the patronage of the emperors and later the Nawabs of Awadh, becoming a symbol of nobility.

Royal inspiration: The art is often said to have been popularized by Nur Jahan, wife of Emperor Jahangir.

Resurgence: After a decline during the British colonial era due to competition from machine-made textiles, the art has experienced a revival and gained international recognition.

How to identify authentic Chikankari

To distinguish genuine Lakhnavi Chikankari from machine-made imitations, check these details:

Stitching: Authentic hand-embroidery shows slight irregularities, with varying stitch sizes and visible thread ends on the reverse side. Machine embroidery is perfectly uniform and clean on both sides.

• Price: Hand-embroidered garments are significantly more expensive due to the time and skill involved. A low price is a major sign of a machine-made copy.
• Fabric feel: Genuine pieces are on soft, breathable fabrics, whereas machine-made versions may be on stiffer, synthetic materials.
• Craftsmanship: Look for a variety of stitches, such as Bakhiya, Phanda, and Jaali, which a machine cannot replicate.
• Trusted sellers: Purchase from reputable brands that work with local Lucknow artisans.