The Nauvari saree

 

The Nauvari saree

The Nauvari saree is a traditional Maharashtrian garment, named for its nine-yard (nau war) length, which is draped in a unique dhoti-like style that allows for freedom of movement and resembles trousers. Also known as the Kashta or Lugade saree, it traditionally symbolized empowerment and courage, originating during the Maratha rule to enable women to participate in warrior activities. Today, while traditionally made of cotton for daily wear, it's also crafted from luxurious silks and satins for occasions like weddings and festivals, making it a significant emblem of Maharashtra's cultural heritage.

HISTORY AND SIGNIFICANCE

Warrior roots: The Nauvari's dhoti-like drape traces back to the Maratha Empire, when women would wear it to provide them freedom of movement for assisting warriors during battles. This origin makes it a symbol of strength, resilience, and empowerment.

Cultural identity: The saree is a deep-seated part of Maharashtrian heritage and is worn for major cultural and religious events, including weddings, Gudi Padwa, and Ganesh Chaturthi.

Symbol of equality: Its practical design also represents the equal footing of women in both domestic and public life during difficult times in history. 

Types of Nauvari sarees

Different draping styles and fabrics define the various types of Nauvari sarees:

Brahmani Nauvari: A style traditionally worn by Brahmin women in Maharashtra.

Peshwai Nauvari: A specific style of drape and design that evokes a royal, regal look.

Lavani Saree: A vibrant Nauvari style commonly worn by performers of the Lavani folk dance.

Paithani Nauvari: A version of the Nauvari made with the luxurious Paithani silk, featuring rich colors and intricate zari borders

FABRICS USED

While originally made from cotton, modern Nauvari sarees are available in a variety of fabrics: 

Silk and Paithani silk: For special occasions like weddings, the royal and elegant silk or Paithani silk varieties are often chosen.

Cotton and Silk-Cotton: Lighter fabrics such as cotton and cotton-silk blends are also used, making the saree comfortable for various functions.

Georgette and Organza: For a more contemporary and lighter feel, Nauvari sarees can also be found in georgette and organza fabrics.

KEY CHARACTERISTICS

Length: The name "Nauvari" (or "Nav Vari") refers to the nine yards of fabric used, which is longer than a standard saree. 

 

Drape Style: The most distinctive feature is its dhoti-style drape, where the fabric is tucked between the legs and secured at the back, creating a trouser-like appearance. 

Fabric: Traditional Nauvari sarees are made of cotton, while more elaborate versions for special occasions are available in silk and satin with intricate designs and embellishments.

Accessories: It is typically worn without a petticoat. 

Empowerment:

The unique drape was designed to give women the freedom to move easily, which was vital during the Maratha Empire when women assisted male warriors. 

Symbolism: The saree represents fortitude, the indomitable spirit of Maharashtrian women, and a strong connection to the state's heritage. 

Cultural Icon: It remains a cherished garment, worn in everyday life, at cultural festivals, and in traditional folk dances like the lavani. 

Modern Relevance

Versatility: The Nauvari has seen a resurgence in popularity and is embraced by both older generations and younger women who want to connect with their roots.

Availability: The market now offers ready-to-wear stitched versions to make the drape more accessible for those who lack the traditional draping skills. 

Artistic Expression: Richly embroidered silk Nauvari sarees are often considered works of art, adorned with traditional motifs like peacocks and florals.