HISTORY OF CLOTHING IN ANCIENT INDIA

HISTORY OF CLOTHING IN ANCIENT INDIA

Ancient India's clothing history is a rich tapestry woven from diverse materials, styles, and cultural influences, evolving across millennia. From the Indus Valley Civilization's rudimentary draped fabrics to the Vedic period's focus on unstitched garments like the dhoti and antariya, and the later development of the sarees, Indian clothing reflects both practicality and evolving aesthetics. Regional variations, influenced by climate, social structures, and foreign contact, further shaped the diverse styles seen throughout ancient India. 

KEY PERIODS AND DEVELOPMENTS:

INDUS VALLEY CIVILIZATION (2600-1900 BCE) : Evidence suggests the use of cotton textiles and basic draped clothing like loincloths for men and short skirts or fitted tunics for women. Needles and spindle whorls indicate spinning and weaving activities. 

 

VEDIC PERIOD (1500-500 BCE) : The Rigveda mentions garments like vasa (lower garment), adhivasa (upper garment), and nivi (undergarment). The dhoti (wrapped lower garment) and antariya (saree-like garment) are characteristic. 

 

MAURYA EMPIRE (321-185 BCE) : Clothing became more refined with the use of silk and cotton. Garments were differentiated by gender and social class.

 

GUPTA EMPIRE (320-550 CE): The saree gained prominence as a popular garment. This "golden age" saw textiles become even richer and the widespread adoption of stitched garments, including tunics, coats, trousers, and boots, influenced by Kushan styles. Traditional garments like the dhoti, antariya, and uttariya continued to be worn. Women's clothing saw variations like the ghagra (a gathered skirt) and cholaka (a type of choli/blouse) sculptures from the Gupta period depict figures wearing a variety of garments, including a dhoti reaching the knees, secured by a patka (waistband), and an upper garment like a striped, stitched tunic with full-length sleeves.

 

LATER PERIODS: Regional styles like Jamdani weaving in Bengal and Ilkal saree embroidery in Karnataka emerged. The Mughal Empire introduced styles like the anarkali suit. 

 

ANCIENT TEXTS: The Ashtadhyayi by Panini and Arthashastra by Kautilya mention various fabrics and weaving techniques.

 

KEY GARMENTS :

DHOTI: A piece of cloth wrapped around the waist and legs, typically worn by men. 

 

ANTARIYA: A saree-like garment worn by women in the Vedic period.

 

SAREE : A long, unstitched piece of cloth draped around the body, becoming one of the most popular garments.

 

CHOLI: A blouse, often worn with a saree, providing upper body coverage. 

 

TURBANS: Worn by both men and women in various regions. 

 

SALWAR KAMEEZ: A popular ensemble consisting of loose-fitting trousers (salwar) and a tunic (kameez). 

 

Regional Variations and Influences :

 

CLIMATE :  Clothing styles adapted to the warm Indian climate, with a focus on lightweight, breathable fabrics.

 

SOCIAL HIERARCHY: Clothing could indicate social status and occupation. 

 

FOREIGN INFLUENCES :  Foreign invaders like the Greeks, Kushans, and Persians influenced clothing styles and fabrics. 

 

 

Modern Indian fashion: Has been influenced by Bollywood and incorporates both traditional regional styles and Western trends.